Back in the late 1970s, my brother and I went to see the new blockbuster movie, The Deep. I was fascinated by the cool underwater scenes I’d seen in the previews. When I found out the movie’s filming location, I made up my mind that someday I’d be visiting Bermuda. Almost four decades later, I finally made this long-overdue adventure happen.
As fate would have it, I ended up arriving at the tail end of a hurricane (alert: that’s what can happen if you go in September!). But even though I had to forego most of the water activities I’d planned, the island did not disappoint. Here are some important things to know when planning your own visit to Bermuda.
Bermuda is Not in the Caribbean
The first thing to know about Bermuda is that it’s not in the Caribbean. People often get confused about this, and you’ll even find it on some lists of “Islands to Visit in the Caribbean.” The island of Bermuda is actually in the North Atlantic, about 650 miles east of North Carolina. That location means the water temperature cools down in the winter, making it a bit chilly for swimming. So, unlike places like Hawaii or the Virgin Islands, you probably won’t be walking around in a swimsuit, and you’ll need a jacket or sweater when visiting Bermuda in winter. That said, visiting in the winter means a slower pace, fewer people, and lower-cost lodging and airfare.
Boats, Buses, and…Twizys
In my many years of solo travel, one thing I’ve always insisted on is being able to get around on my own. I almost always rent a car so that I’m not dependent on anyone else’s schedule. In Bermuda, however, I had to adjust my thinking. Because it’s a small island with limited roads and traffic capacity, only Bermuda residents can have vehicles. Yep, that means no rental cars.
Fortunately, the island makes up for the lack of rental cars by having a very efficient bus and ferry system. During my visit, I decided to try out several different modes of transportation to see which one I preferred. Each night, I decided where I wanted to go the next day and then looked at the schedules to figure out the best way to get there.
After experimenting with transportation for five days on the island, my preference was using the buses and ferries. The best part about the ferries was the view from the water. But what I liked about taking the bus was that I could pay attention to the scenery and the “lay of the land” rather than focusing on traffic and worrying about which direction to go.
Another alternative is to rent a scooter, which is what many people associate with Bermuda. In The Deep, there’s a famous scene where Nick Nolte and Jacqueline Bisset are zipping around the island on scooters. The movie makes it look like so much fun, but scooters can be very dangerous with the island’s tight curves and corners. Even my lodging host strongly cautioned me to skip the scooters.
Instead, I rented a Twizy. A what? A Twizy is a small electric vehicle that can run about 40 miles on a charge. If you’re a budget traveler, be forewarned that they’re a bit pricey (about US $130/day), but I decided on a one-day splurge to try it out. The interior is a tight squeeze if you’re a tall person, and with an average speed of 25 mph, they slow down the local drivers behind you. On the other hand, a Twizy will definitely get you to your destination faster than a bus will, and it will give you more freedom to come and go as you wish.
The Cruise Ship Effect
Bermuda is a top cruise destination, but if that’s not how you’re traveling to the island, you might not know this. And when the ships are in port, so are lots of people who all want to visit the most popular places on the island.
The day I decided to go to Horseshoe Bay (rated one of the best beaches in the world), I found myself there with hundreds of ship passengers who all had the same idea. Elbowing my way through crowds is not my idea of fun. I could have easily avoided this situation if I had known to check the cruise ship schedules (which are posted online) to see when the ships would be there. I had visited the popular Jobson’s Cove the day before and practically had the place to myself.
Small Island, Long Distances
Even though Bermuda is only 21 miles long, it can take up two hours to get from the airport on the St. George’s side to the Royal Dockyard on the other side. When searching for lodging, make sure you understand where it’s located in terms of the places you want to visit.
Although I loved the place I stayed, I didn’t realize how far it was from some of the places I wanted to see. (I also had an amazing lodging host who sometimes gave me rides if she was going somewhere!) Hamilton is a good central location if there are places you want to see on both sides. You could also split your time to stay in two different locations.
You Can Find Your Own Secret Place
You definitely shouldn’t miss the well-known sites if you visit Bermuda: Horseshoe Bay, Crystal Caves, the Naval Dockyard, Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, etc. But it’s also possible to find your own peaceful place that’s relatively undiscovered. I enjoyed a gorgeous red and purple sunset at a beach in Sandys Parish where I was the only person there. I found a historic fort on a map, which was deserted and had a beautiful view of a bay. Don’t hesitate to ask locals to share some inside knowledge about what to see near where you’re staying. Bermuda is known for its friendly people, and I found them always willing to help.
There are so many unique places to explore on this small and charming island. In fact, I was so enamored with Bermuda after my visit that I booked another trip for May 2020. But, alas, COVID-19 had other plans for us all. I hope to return there soon.
Images and text ©Laurie J. Schmidt, All Rights Reserved
