About 20 years ago, I was trying to decide where to take my son on a summer vacation trip. One of my coworkers asked me if I had ever been to Hawaii. To this day, I still remind her that I became a Hawaii fanatic because of her. We did indeed go to Hawaii that summer, and I fell in love with the island of Kauai.
Since that first trip, I have visited all of the main Hawaiian Islands except Molokai. I was even lucky enough to live on Maui for a year when a work trip took me there. But Kauai remains my favorite island, and I have returned there repeatedly in the past 20 years. Aside from the dramatic Nāpali cliffs, I love the island’s rural and local feel.
When visiting Kauai, I typically spent most of my time on the north shore or in the Poipu area on the south side of the island. But one year, I decided to spend a few days exploring a quieter part of the island: West Kauai. Here are my recommendations for three days on the sunny and dry side of Kauai.
Day 1
Hanapepe: “Kauai’s Biggest Little Town”
It’s a 25-mile drive from Lihue and the airport to Waimea, the main activity “hub” in West Kauai. On the way, be sure and stop in the little town of Hanapepe. With a population of less than 3,000, it’s hard to imagine that Hanapepe was once one of Kauai’s most hopping places. It may not look like much is happening as you veer off the main highway into the town, but there are some gems to discover here.
One of these hidden treasures is the Hanapepe Swinging Bridge. Built in the 1900s, the bridge gave residents a way to cross the Hanapepe River. Fortunately, the bridge was restored after Hurricane Iniki destroyed it in 1992. If you’re not keen on walking across the bridge (it really does swing), you can still climb the stairs to take a photo. Hanapepe is also home to some interesting galleries and shops, so it’s worth taking a stroll down the main street. I popped into the Aloha Spice Shop and left with some red Hawaiian sea salt and some seafood seasoning.
Waimea Town
Many people breeze right through the town of Waimea on their way to Waimea Canyon. In fact, I once saw a travel site that said, “Waimea is a good place to get gas on your way to Waimea Canyon.” But Waimea is much more than just a place to fill up. It’s the kind of place that will make you feel like you’re visiting the Hawaii of 50 years ago.
My first stop was at the legendary JoJo’s Shave Ice on the main highway. This might be the most expensive ice you ever pay for, but it’s definitely a Hawaiian treat not to miss. I sat outside at a picnic table with my coconut-strawberry-pineapple shave ice (with macadamia ice cream at the bottom!) and tried not to think about how much sugar I was ingesting.
If you’re a history buff, walk over to the center of town to see the Captain James Cook Monument. Kauai was the first island visited by Captain Cook, and he landed right there in Waimea Bay in 1778. He was killed the following year at Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island. It’s a fascinating story to read about if you have the time.
Waimea Pier
Being a photographer, I was anxious to get some sunset photos at the Waimea Recreation Pier, which is just a short walk from JoJo’s Shave Ice. With a history that dates back to 1865, the 600-foot pier attracts local fishermen and photographers alike. The beach here is black sand and the water is usually pretty murky, so just don’t expect the clear turquoise waters of the north shore beaches. But you’ll have a front row seat as the sun disappears below the horizon. If you’re lucky, there may even be some locals playing ukuleles as the sun sets.
Day 2
Kalalau Lookout
The view from the Kalalau Lookout is one of the most breathtaking scenes in all of the Pacific. Even if you’re just doing a day trip from another part of the island, it is not to be missed. The dramatic cliffs of the Nāpali Coast stretch for about 16 miles along the northwest side of Kauai. This rugged coastline is the reason you can’t drive all the way around the island. A road through the sheer cliffs and swampy areas would be next to impossible. But you can see these stunning cliffs by driving 18 miles to the top of Waimea Canyon Road. Here, you’ll be treated to a view of the Nāpali Coast from 4,000 feet above the ocean.
The first viewpoint is the Kalalau Lookout at mile marker 18. Stop here for your first glimpse of the coast but then continue on a mile farther to the Pu’u O Kila Lookout, which is even more dramatic. If you arrive when it’s foggy (which happens often), just wait a while. Sometimes just when you’re ready to give up and leave, the clouds break and the surreal scene reveals itself. I usually bring my lunch with me, in case I have to wait for the fog to lift. Going in the morning increases your chances of having a clear view.
Pihea Trail
Most people stand at the overlooks to take a few photos and then leave. But if you really want to see some views, take a walk on the Pihea Trail, which starts from the Pu’u O Kila Lookout. The roundtrip distance is 4.4 miles, but you can go as far as you like and turn around. I hiked less than a mile and there were several places where I could see the cliffs from the trail. Note that the trail is moderately challenging, so hiking shoes or boots are a must. It also becomes very muddy after it rains.
Note: Parking at the two lookouts used to be free. However, in 2021 the Department of Land and Natural Resources implemented a $5.00 entrance fee and a $10.00 parking fee for non-Hawaii residents.
Day 3
Waimea Canyon
The dramatic gorge of Waimea Canyon is what most people drive to West Kauai for, and you should definitely see it. Just know that there will be lots of people joining you at the overlooks, and it can sometimes be challenging to find a parking spot. You’ll often read that Mark Twain called Waimea Canyon the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. But according to several reputable sources, that’s actually a myth. Twain did indeed visit Hawaii, but he never stepped foot on the island of Kauai, and he never laid eyes on Waimea Canyon.
If you’re satisfied with just getting a glimpse of the canyon, then a stop at the Waimea Canyon Lookout will give you the grand-scale overview. If you’re up for an adventure, several hikes lead along the rim and into the canyon. My most memorable experience at Waimea Canyon was joining a group hike with the Sierra Club. We took the Canyon Trail, which led us to a spectacular—if dizzying—view from the top of Waipo’o Falls. You can also get a distant view of the falls from a viewpoint on Waimea Canyon Road.
Glass Beach
I have a friend who once went to Kauai on my recommendation. When she came back, I asked her what her favorite place was, fully expecting her to say the Nāpali Coast, Hanalei, or one of the amazing beaches. But nope—she said Glass Beach in West Kauai. It struck me funny because in my many trips to Kauai, I had never even been to this place.
In an industrial area near Port Allen Harbor in Ele’ele is an area of shoreline that’s covered in small pieces of sea glass. Glass from bottles dumped in the area gets broken into pieces. After a couple decades of wave action, the result is millions of frosted little pebbles in green, brown, aqua, and clear. In defense of my friend, it really is a cool thing to see. On your way back to Lihue, turn right onto Waialo Road at the town of Ele’le.
You can modify this itinerary to suit your own preferences and time limitations, For example, you could visit both Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau Lookout in one day to make it a two-day trip to West Kauai. If you have more time you can even explore farther beyond Waimea, such as the beach at Kekaha and Polihale State Park.
Images and text ©Laurie J. Schmidt, All Rights Reserved
